Roscoby
riser cam review 08-16-2008
The world of cameras has reached out
across the hunting and fishing arenas with some new cleverly designed units
that take up a nitch that was previously covered
by some home brew rigs using camcorders. We have seen the Epic by Stealthcam
and the BVR and now the Roscoby bow riser cam.
Most modern archery bows are equipped with a screw hole that allows the use
of a stabilizer. The purpose of the stabilizer is to dampen the vibration
caused once the string is released and the arrow is launched. This torque
action of the bow during this time when the string starts to move and launch
the arrow which can cause the string to move in one direction or another
making the flight of the arrow inconsistent. Ok, now let’s screw in a
stabilizer and see what happens to the path of the arrow, it becomes much
more consistent. What if someone wanted to use this stabilizer hole for
another purpose and still get the job of stabilizing the bow done? Along
comes the riser cam. The riser is that portion of the bow that has the
stabilizer hole. These folks have taken a rubber armored camera and put it
into a stabilizer. Why on earth would someone want something like this? We
have to remember back to those folks that made up their own rigs with a
bracket and that big old heavy camcorder to film their hunts and especially
that time during the flight of the arrow. This eight inch long rubber
armored octagonal two inch tube contains a stand alone recording system for
this purpose. It does not use tape for recording. It is a self contained DVR
that records to a SD card and from the camera mounted in the front of this
tube. There is also facility for a plug in microphone that is about the size
of AAA battery. The top of this octagonal tube has Three
switches and a dime sized window to a small LCD. Front to back the switch
buttons are power button, record on/off button, and the function button. The
LCD is between button one and two and it displays the memory status. On the bottom
flat of the octagon is a tripod insert and a
rubber flap that keeps the rain out when the microphone is not plugged in.
This tube is a two part tube and the back part can be detached from the
front and screwed into the insert on the bow, there is a jam nut to insure
tightness and alignment of the camera. The front half contains the camera
and recorder with the SD card slot along with the battery compartment. The
end that screws into the part that is mounted on the bow is where the SD
card slot is and also the battery compartment. Just above that is a AV
out jack and mini USB jack.. The SD card slot has
a lip over the top of it from the battery compartment door. This lip is to
keep the card from dislodging during the vibration of the shot. This camera
portion screws into the back section in two revolutions and has O rings to
seal this junction from moisture and prevent vibration from unscrewing it
from the front half. View the sidebar for pictures of these components. This
bow camera is weather proof (water resistant) but is not water proof,
meaning it will stand up to most field uses but would not liked to be
submerged in water. There is suppose to be some built in dampening so that
the video that is being shot is not disturbed that much by the oscillations
of the bow.
Here are some observations made by
the manufacture of this product. Use only San Disk SD cards because
the amount of shock from the arrow release can cause other cards to
immediately fail. They also recommend that folks use Energizer e2 lithium AA
batteries. I spent an hour out looking but was not able to locate this
battery close without me using up another dose of that four dollar a gallon
gas. So I will just have to only have 30 minutes of service for my initial
testing. One very nice feature is the keyed battery holder comes as a pair
and you can load the second and keep it in your field pack incase you get
that low battery light. When this device is in full
operation it has a small green indicator next to the on off switch.
This green light has two purposes it indicates the standby mode and the fact
that the cells are up to power. Once this indicator starts to blink that is
the indication of low power and the faster it blinks will determine the
amount of recording time left. This camera can take up to a 4 gig scan disk
SD card. The card should never be removed without first turning the power
off and the green light is out. The contact side of the SD card should be up
or on the same side of the camera as the switches when being installed.
There is a red indicator next to the on/off switch and when it is on the
unit is recording. If this red indicator starts to blink every ten seconds
this indicates that your remaining recording time is 30minutes. The faster
it blinks means different times down to 5 minutes remaining.
We have all the functional stuff
talked about lets screw this thing into the bow
and make sure things are correct. Depending on the depth of the insert on
the bow will determine the amount of camera thread that is screwed in. take
it all the way in and back it off so the switches are fully aligned with the
top of the bow. They tighten the jam nut down to maintain this position. Now
you probably want to run out to the “block” and fire a few arrows to get a
feel of things. Lets cover a few precautions.
Being the instant the arrow is released the bow goes through a violent
shock. This over time can destroy the media card. So during practice use the
old san disk cards you have laying around but when it comes time for that
big hunt use a fresh but tested card to insure success in recording the big
event. Also do not take a chance on the batteries you have been using for
practice. Get off to the store and fill up both holders with new tested e
cells by Energizer and you are ready and will have a back up set. Don’t
leave the batteries in the camera if you are back for a while before the
next trip they could leak and cause problems just when you are getting ready
for that next trip to the field. Your choice of SD card will be determined
by the amount of record time you want. A new san disk one gig card will
record a full thirty minutes of video at the 640X480 30fps rate. So a 4 gig
card will give you two hours of recording time. In that case I know that you
would want the freshest batteries you can get. Should you fail to have a
card there is a two minute 64 MB internal memory. Low light operations are
only to 5 LUX so those very early near dark conditions will be difficult to
record with any degree of effectiveness. To give an example of LUX value
could be like what hunters call first light which is about three LUX.
Pictures can be viewed on a TV with AV jacks with supplied cable or on your
computer with a card reader or USB cable.
There is some
requirements for XVID CODEC to be installed on
the computer which this is explained in the manual much better than I can,
so use that as a reference. Time for some field testing on the target range
so It will get turned over to Anthony to
accomplish this. Bow season is not too long down the calendar so we will get
some shots providing the right animal walks out within good bow range.




08-17-2008 update: The next step was to take
this jewel and put it on the scales to see just what we are fixing to mount
on the front of the bow. It came in at ¾ of a pound, which is a bunch to
hold at arms length for you that also leave your quiver on the bow. The next
thing is the rubber covered buttons which are somewhat hard to turn on and
to remember that to initiate this device it requires it be depressed a full
three seconds and the same to turn it off. In early morning light it was
difficult to hit the button by feel alone. They are somewhat stiff and black
rubber buttons in a black rubber case does not leave much contrast to see.
Practice and memory are required to make sure you are hitting the correct
button for that critical instant that old big walks out within bow range.
Know what the top of this camera feels like so you can hit the correct
button when the time comes. Let’s hope that it is during the time that the
light is enough to get good footage. The documentation is a little weak on a
couple of things like an up front description of what functions each switch
does and a direct description of the proper procedure from the time you hit
the stand until the shot is over. It would be nice to have this written in a
lock step method. It appears that they are the on/off which is self
explanatory and the record on/off. The function button seems to only be used
during the time that you would hook it to the TV to view the pictures and in
that case it would allow you to scroll through the pictures. Hooking to the
computer with the supplied cable is another story and will be discussed
later after we have done some actual testing on the bow and go through that
procedure one step at a time and see the results.
10-29-2008 update: Logged many hours in the
stand with this camera and have yet to get a deer in range to get some
footage. We just cannot get the deer to cooperate and that is sad because we
wanted to get some live action with it. We are still trying but between work
and running the site time to play seems to be getting shorter as the year
goes on


Target Shooting Test #1:
Below is a sample video production we put together.
In this example we shoot at a 20 yard target. In the video I show
normal speed, slow motion and zoomed. We were unable to actually see
the flight of the arrow in our tests due to the vibration occurring during
the recoil.
Click this link (or the pic below) to watch the streaming video results of our target
practice. This target is 20 yards away in mid morning light
(9:30am) with moderate cloud cover. Note: I did hit the bullseye center
(trust me).
I could not make out the flight of the arrow.